【伦敦时装周】Normcore真看够了 是时候让色彩重新丰富起来休闲
不会太严肃,不会太优雅,也不会太幼稚......TOPSHOP UNIQUE、Mother of Pearl 以及 Marques Almeida 带来了三场属于年轻人的秀。
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2016秋冬伦敦时装周 Marques'Almeida 品牌秀场
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
这一季TOPSHOP UNIQUE的灵感缪斯是来自英法街头的最潮女孩。他们总是穿着黑白灰一类的颜色,身上就算有亮色,也不会超过两种,且多以相配的大色块形式出现。这不,那些长着街头女神脸的模特们,就穿着这样“生活化”的衣服依次登场了。
也许说“生活化”有点草率,因为在这一季的 42 个造型中,还有不少是重工细作的礼服裙。刺绣、印花 、蕾丝、大面积亮片......这些元素以克制的用色为前提,提升了质感,而且还不影响日常实穿,算是少有的在实穿和夸张间找到一定平衡的例子。
对了,除了模特,你还可以看看坐在秀场头排 Karlie Kloss、Olivia Palermo 等欧美时尚明星。毫无疑问,她们每个人本身都是 TOPSHOP UNIQUE 这一系列的最好模特。
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Mother of Pearl
这一季的Mother of Pearl 把女模特们都变成了运动美少女:花朵喇叭袖上衣搭配着宝蓝色运动裤’上衣的领口和袖口都做成运动松紧带;千鸟格“一步裙”又或是连衣裙里都要穿条阔腿裤;醒目的袜子应该和拖鞋很搭……当这些看上去互相冲突的单品成套出现,没有人会质疑有无违和感,想到的只会是那种“来自胶原蛋白的美”,充满着元气。
整体而言,这是一场十分美的秀,只是美的有些过于平淡了。
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Marques Almeida
当身着色彩明丽、色块巨大的衣服的模特从面前一一走过,你该意识到这又是一场主打年轻化的秀:大扣子、花印花、廓形落肩,除了颜色,其实还有诸如此类的设计巧思来帮助新系列准确展现定位。光看看这个粉红色的秀场,少女心也已经足够爆棚了。
但不得不说一句的是,设计师在设计辨识度的把控上较以往打了折。他们擅长的牛仔设计方面似乎并没有做出太多突破,牛仔单品出现的次数也十分有限。而外套的版型一直是他们的强项,但除了廓形,似乎这一季也并没有看到更多的新意。
Marques Almeida 是这两年迅速崛起的英国设计师品牌,由两位设计师共同运营,此前它已得到过 LVMH 设计大奖的提名。
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