【伦敦男装周】伦敦时尚之所以迷人 是因为什么风格都可以包容休闲
剪裁、色彩、面料,这几个品牌玩得都很大胆,并且它们的创始设计师都是以组合形式出现。
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有人说伦敦时装界的含金量大部分来源于新锐品牌。从几所人才辈出的设计学院毕业的学生,受到英国时装协会等机构的扶植,慢慢也能在业界崭露头角。积极的环境鼓励年轻人大胆创新,他们勇于表达自己,也乐于将自己的态度赋予时装去影响更多人。
今天介绍的这几个品牌,光从外形来看就已经个性十足。因为无论是剪裁、色彩、面料上,它们都玩得很大胆。很巧的是,这四个品牌的创始人都不是一个人,而都以组合形式出现。这使得品牌在发展初期就形成了分工和资源整合,比如 Christopher Kane,就是哥哥设计,妹妹选面料,2006年品牌推出过的一件尼龙面料绷带裙曾大获好评,使 Christopher Kane 受到了时尚评论家的大力宣传从而走红。
Christopher Kane
英国品牌 Christopher Kane 由 Christopher Kane 和他的妹妹 Tammy Kane 创立于2006年。那时候, 24岁的 Kane 毕业于中央圣马丁艺术设计学院,Tammy Kane 毕业于苏格兰纺织设计学院,现在负责公司的财务以及面料设计。
Christopher Kane 在2006年获得苏格兰时尚奖授予的年度最佳新锐设计师后,开始为 Topshop 设计服装。他的设计风格在早期偏爱紧身的剪裁,喜欢皮草,后来又尝试了塑料亮片和薄纱。而2016的秋冬系列,灵感来源于美国现代艺术家约翰·张伯伦的作品。张伯伦擅长将金属、钢铁元素、有机玻璃等废材料也应用在媒介中,涂上鲜艳的颜色点缀在建筑等东西各处。Kane 将这种结构和抽象的颜色和图案做成了这一季的印花,结合宽松的剪裁,让系列形成了一种随性和时髦的公路运动感。
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Agi & Sam
这个由Agi Mdumulla 和 Sam Cotton 两位设计师于2010年共同创立的品牌除了色彩之外,擅长在男装里融入积极向上的情绪。两人拥有明确的分工,Mdumulla 学习时装设计,致力于剪裁,Cotton 学习插画,喜欢做印花,两个人在 Alexander McQueen 工作时相识, 那时适逢2008年金融海啸,两人都觉得伦敦的男装设计太无聊,不如自己自创品牌。
Agi & Sam 就此创立。两人之间的配合经过几年的磨练变得更加成熟。号称色彩主义的 Agi & Sam 本季放弃了鲜艳的色块,转而以悠闲的剪裁做出了层次感,在颜色运用上更加自如,使整个系列的完整性也更好。更重要的是,Agi & Sam 已经显露出转向更为日常穿着的端倪,他们希望将街头服装做出品质,既能展现个性也能会见客户,下班了也可以不用换装就和朋友喝一杯。
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Sibling
Sibling 出场的第一秒,就足以令人印象深刻。这个由 Joe Bates, Sid Bryan 和 Cozette McCreery 三名年轻设计师创立于2008年的英国新锐品牌,以男性针织品和颠覆性的印染手法在业界著称。它颠覆传统男装的设计背后,是自信和出挑的创新精神,大胆、好玩,甚至有些疯狂。
Sibling 的设计一直是三人的团队型成果,Bates 在纽约生活、 Bryan来自皇家艺术学院,曾和 Alexander McQueen 和Bella Freud 共事,而 McCreery 则是曾为珠宝公司工作,还当过DJ。
履历丰富的三个人却都喜爱针织品,实属难得。2016年秋冬系列中, Sibling 一出场就惊艳全场,它将模特的力量和针织品的温暖柔软结合,并利用色彩渲染出了两者的差异,极具冲突的美感。
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Nasir Mazhar
几年前说到 Nasir Mazhar,大家想到的第一个词是“街头”。 拥有土耳其塞浦路斯血统的设计师 Milliner Nasir 出生在伦敦东区,在2012年时创立了新锐品牌 Nasir Mazhar。 Nasir 曾经是舞台设计师,所以他的衣服总有很浓重的戏剧感。
但Nasir Mazhar 2016年秋冬系列还是有点吓人,虽然是男装,但是肚兜、胸衣等女星打底衫层出不穷,从绑带到抹胸基本只能挡住重要部位,还以黑色系列为主,整个一个夜店雷人风。秀场上隔三差五出现的垃圾桶套头人也是让人一惊,秀倒是好看,但很难预期市场效应。
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